Spring 2009 Couture

>> Chanel and Dior may go full-out with couture presentations, but Donatella Versace prefers to do private appointments in January for Atelier Versace.  A gown from her pleat-centric Fall 2008 collection made it to the Oscars on Marisa Tomei last weekend, and now that that's over, it's time for the big reveal: Spring 2009.  The collection, modeled by Georgina Stojiljkovic, who seems to be Donatella's favorite couture model, focuses on ruffled red carpet-ready gowns, with a couple of whorled cut-out confections thrown in for good measure.  Sketches included.

>> Jean Paul Gaultier always has a trick up his sleeve for his runway shows — think Coco Rocha's iconic Irish dancing opener — and this time, it was all about the closer.  Ines de la Fressange, 51-year-old French supermodel who in the '80s became the first model to sign an exclusive modeling contract — hers was with Chanel — finished out the appropriately '80s-inspired show in a slinky black gown and ivory tuxedo jacket.  The audience cheered her the whole way down the runway, and she turned to wave at old friends.  Gaultier, for his part, was so excited about her appearance that he "chased the former supermodel down the runway and practically wrestled her to the ground during the final moments of the show, catching her just before she fell."  De la Fressange called it a one-off occasion, admitting that she was nervous backstage "surrounded by all those sexy little things."
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>> When Valentino Garavani released a statement categorically denying that he had anything to do with the design of his former accessory designers's first collection for the label, perhaps it was because he knew what was going to come down the runway today.

As Valentino and partner Giancarlo Giammetti sat front row, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli sent out a collection that looked as though Valentino could have designed it himself; it was pure homage.  Not to say that that didn't leave something to be wanted — there was no hint of the new designers' personalities, as if they still wished to be the invisible accessory designers, and this suggestion was reiterated by the fact that the show's programs had neither Chiuri's nor Piccioli's names listed.  I, for one, am missing the categorically ousted Alessandra Facchinetti — her couture was fresh, sumptuous — unlike this collection — and with character.
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>> Givenchy's couture revenue increased a whopping 80 percent last year — with another 20 percent increase forecasted for 2009 — and collections like this prove how it's done.  Mummy-wrapped shoes, rose petals covering both the runway and a print on two strappy bondage gowns, and a continued interest in chains, carried over from Fall 2008 ready-to-wear, carried forward the evolution of Riccardo Tisci's romantic gothic branding at the house.  And those veils — interestingly enough, the majority of Givenchy couture customers are based in the Middle East — so perhaps the head coverings were a nod to those ladies?  Catherine McNeil showed up sans the crutches than she was sporting earlier this month; All that was missing were two of the house's current faces — Mariacarla Boscono, Lakshmi Menon, where are you?
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>> Karl Lagerfeld recently proclaimed "bling is over.  I call it 'the new modesty.'"  His Chanel couture collection was certainly pared down compared to seasons past, from the smaller venue to the colorless palette and egalitarian inspiration: paper.  Appearances may be deceiving, however; Karl still has no financial constraints at Chanel: "We have no budget, we do what we want and throwing money out the window brings money back in through the front door.  The bottom line is that I don’t deal with the bottom line."

The couture collection is still, in his words, "for the very rich" — "not for the nouveau riche."  And as for the change of venue from the usual imposing Grand Palais to a smaller former bank near the house's headquarters — the switch was only made because the Palais was unavailable, not for budgetary reasons.  They must be doing something right — girls are already falling all over the clothes; literally, in the case of Alexandra Tomlinson, who took a tumble on the Chanel runway.
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