If you've started your art collection, you've probably encountered the high costs of having your first pieces framed and matted. Or, if you're thinking about starting your collection, you may be anxious about those costs. Either way, don't be fearful. Although a beautiful frame can really make a piece of art stand out, if you've chosen something that is unique and that is unequivocally "you," that alone will make the artwork. So, all you need is a simple, inexpensive frame, and to learn to mat your own prints.
To get the supply list and learn the steps that I learned from the small object, read more
Supplies:
- a mat cutter (handheld or not)
- a piece of acid-free matboard
- your frame
- a pencil
- a box cutter
- a straight edge ruler
Here are the steps:
- Use the box cutter to cut out the size mat you need, depending on your frame size. If your frame came with a paper insert, that is a nice guide to use when cutting. From here on out, always work from the back of your matboard so you don’t mark up the front of it.
- The border measurements are the same on the top, left, and right. The bottom border should be larger to give the piece visual weight. Mat borders need to be at least 2" thick, and even wider for larger work.
To figure out what your measurements should be, follow this example. If the mat is 8" in width and the artwork is 4.25" in width, the window of the mat should be 4" so that it covers the edges of the artwork somewhat, to hold it in place. Divide the window size by two to calculate the width of left and right mat borders. In this case it would be 2". So, the left, right, and top borders will all be 2" (since they need to be the same) and the bottom will be what's left over.
- On the back of your mat, draw lines with your pencil to mark where the window will be, but be sure to extend the lines longer than necessary, so you can see where the corners cross.
- Line up your mat cutter on the guidelines you marked. Position the mat cutter so that the angled blade is pointing toward the center of the artwork. Overcut each corner by about 1/4" to ensure that you get a crisp, clean corner. Push hard enough to make sure your blade is cutting through to the front of the mat.
- After you’ve cut all four sides, your window should just slip right out. Put your mat into your frame, and your artwork behind the mat. Then tape your artwork with a small piece of duct tape on the top side to the back of the mat, and consult DearSugar for how to best display your awesome matted and framed art. Fini!
For more detailed steps, check out the small object's instructions.
Modalu
Temperley London
Anne Weyburn
I've done this before.
1Haha I need to do this!
2I want to do this. It looks great.
3i love this idea!
4but my walls would be filled with black and white
i love them sooooo much!
A few months ago, at the art supply store, I inquired into the pros and cons of using a handheld mat cutter. The art supply store worker guy spun tales of expensive stacks of ruined mat board and frustration. I couldn't justify the purchase of a cutter with a guide (over $100), so I gave up on cutting my own mats. the small object's instructions make me want to give it a try. I think I'll practice on some old junky mat board first.
5i usually just use an exacto knife, but it doesn't work so well as a cool mat cutter!
6If anyone lives near a campus bookstore or art supply store, they often have mat cutters you can use when you purchase the mat bored there. So if you are prepared with what you want to do, you can do it there and save yourself the money of buying your own cutter...
7Years ago, i invested in a small mat cutter (with no guide). I bought this at Michaels craft store. Here it is at Amazon..
http://www.amazon.com/Logan-Graphics-2000-Straight-Cutter/dp/B0019IISD8/...
Anyway, I found that this makes simple beveled edges a cinch. I am pretty handy and made cardboard models all through my youth, and I can't imagine making a beveled edge with an ordinary box cutter as the above article suggests. It's just too precise an angle that has to be maintained through the entire cut. However, if you don't want or need a beveled edge, then the above instruction is fine.
Using the Logan tool takes practice, but I have actually accomplished intricate art deco-like edges with it. I use a heavy ruler and basic carpentry clamps to achieve a firm edge, but a big heavy art book or the like would work well with firm hand pressure applied.
Incidentally, I have been picking up very nice mat boards for FREE -- I live near a framing shopthat each week puts out tons of it in the trash. Also foam board and backing wood that I use to paint with acrylics. I have more than I can use!
Happy framing!
8NEVER use duct tape to attach your print to the mat!!!!
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